Tuesday, November 26, 2019

diy Coco Choco shampoo bars

We continue the Coco Choco project with a chocolatey solid shampoo, because our hair need also a special treatment, right? This time I decided to add a little bit of clay, to see how it will work on hair and especially how functional it will be in preservation. As most of you will already know, clay-containing products are much more sensitive and have a shorter shelf-life. However, I really wanted to add clay to my shampoo, so I said my self to give it a try and observe the behavior of the product.

I made a generous amount of shampoo bars which I distributed to clients and friends and after a few months we noticed that nothing terrible had happened :) The truth is  that I used 2 different types of preservative in order to protect the oily phase of the shampoo and fight any kind of bacteria that would build up in the bathroom due to running water and moisture.

For me, I chose white clay and noticed that it absorbed all the grease, leaving my hair soft and light while removing dirt and hairdressing residues (hairspray, hair mousse  etc). I noticed that using this shampoo my hair was deeply moisturized and soft as silk. However, before using clays or powders you must sterilize them. Let’s see how to do this:

how to sterilise clays or powders before using them in your cosmetics

To sterilize your powders or clays and make sure that the material you use in your cosmetics is safe for your skin, you'll need:
  • clay or powder of your choice
  • sterilised baking tray
Pour the clay or powder into the baking tray (after you have sterilized it) and spread the material all over the surface of the tray. Place the tray in a preheated oven at 150 degrees Celsius and bake for 1.5 hours. Remove the tray from the oven and allow the clay or the powder to cool down. Put it in a sterilised container. Ensure that the clay or the powder is completely cool before closing the container. 

Coco Choco Shampoo Bars
recipe for 100 g | 3.5 oz

phase a
6 g | 0.21 oz cocoa butter
4 g | 0.14 oz coconut oil

phase b
35 g | 1.23 oz SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)
35 g | 1.23 oz SCS (Sodium Coco Sulfate)
6 g | 0.21 oz CocoBetaine (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)

phase c
8 g | 0.28 oz white clay
3 g | 0.11 oz Tulsi powder
1 g | 0.04 oz cocoa powder
1 g | 0.04 oz broad spectrum preservative
0,5 g | 0.02 oz coconut extract BIO
o,5 g | 0.02 oz chocolate extract BIO

Before you start making the shampoo, sterilise tools, containers, work surface, wear gloves and DEFINITELY a mask because you must not breath any of the powders that will be used in this project.

Ιn a beaker, pour the Phase A ingredients and prepare a water-bath (bain-marie) by filling a heat- proof saucepan, 1/3 full of water. Place the beaker into the water-bath.

In a bowl, carefully add the Phase B ingredients and mix with a stainless whisker very gently to avoid dusting. Add the Phase C ingredients and stir again with your hands this time. Pour the Phase A ingredients (after they have melted well) and mix by hand until your mixture becomes a nice dough.

Press into mold and place it the refrigerator. Allow to cure for 2 to 4 hours. Unmold and let your shampoos dry for 24 hours.

Apply to wet hair and make gentle massage starting from the roots to the edges.
The shampoo should dry between uses. Allow to dry on a luffa sponge.
They are suitable for all hair types.
  • Cocoa butter and coconut oil help regenerate the hair follicle cells, thereby helping hair become shiny and vibrant. 
  • SCI is a natural surfactant, a powdered palm kernel derivative and is combined with SCS which is a coconut oil-derived surfactant that allows the incorporation of vegetable oils or butters. CocoBetaine is also a mild surfactant derived from coconut oil and used as a foam enhancer.
  • Ayurvedic Tulsi powder cleanses and deeply rejuvenates hair, removes dirt and toxins while soothing scalp. Helps fight dandruff and is suitable for all hair types, with a focus on oily hair.
  • Cocoa powder stimulates blood circulation in the scalp and helps improve overall hair health. I purposely put a small percentage of cocoa in the recipe because it tends to leave colouring on blond hair.
  • You will find organic extracts here and here.

Stella Crown©