The olive tree (Olea europaea, family Oleaceae) is one of the oldest cultivated trees of the Mediterranean basin. It is an evergreen perennial species strongly connected with the ecology, economy and culture of the region. Archaeobotanical findings indicate the presence of wild olives in the eastern Mediterranean (Syria, Asia Minor and Greece) since prehistoric times, while olive pollen samples discovered in Crete and mainland Greece date back to the Neolithic period.
Systematic cultivation appears during the Early Bronze Age. Olive remains discovered in the Minoan palace of Zakros and storage vessels in Knossos confirm that olives and olive oil were already traded commodities in the Aegean. Later, Linear B tablets from Mycenaean Pylos and Mycenae document organized production and distribution of olive oil, proving its economic importance long before classical antiquity.
In Classical Greece the olive tree acquired not only agricultural but also symbolic value. According to mythology, Athena offered the olive tree to the Athenians, and sacred olive groves were protected by law. Olive oil was used in nutrition, athletics, religious rituals and personal grooming. Athletes covered their bodies with olive oil, and the Panathenaic amphorae awarded to winners contained olive oil as a prestigious prize.
Ancient medical writers also mention it frequently. Hippocratic texts, Dioscorides and Galen describe topical uses of olive oil for skin conditions and wound care. Galen’s “cold cream”, considered one of the earliest cosmetic emulsions, used olive oil as its lipid phase.
Early harvest olive oil is produced from olives collected while still green and unripe, usually at the beginning of the harvesting season. Because the fruit has not fully matured, the yield is lower but the chemical composition is different.
Green olives contain higher concentrations of phenolic compounds. This explains the characteristic bitter and peppery taste of early harvest oil and also its biological interest. Modern chemical analysis shows high levels of phenolic secoiridoids such as oleacein and oleocanthal. Oleocanthal has been associated with anti-inflammatory activity comparable, in mechanism, to mild COX inhibition, while oleacein demonstrates strong antioxidant capacity.
The fatty acid profile is dominated by oleic acid (omega-9), accompanied by smaller amounts of linoleic (omega-6) and α-linolenic (omega-3) acids. The oil also contains squalene, sterols (mainly β-sitosterol), carotenoids and tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol (vitamin E). Polyphenols such as tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol contribute significantly to oxidative stability.
Because of this composition, early harvest olive oil is more resistant to oxidation than many refined vegetable oils and remains chemically stable for longer periods when properly stored.
Here the subject becomes particularly interesting from a cosmetic science perspective.
Olive oil is not simply a generic “natural oil”. It is a lipid mixture rich in triglycerides of oleic acid together with minor components that influence skin behaviour.
Oleic acid acts as a penetration enhancer. It temporarily disrupts the ordered structure of the stratum corneum lipids, increasing flexibility of the skin surface. This explains why olive oil softens rough skin quickly. However, the same property means it is not ideal for very acne-prone or compromised infant skin when used alone.
The unsaponifiable fraction is equally important. Squalene is a natural component of human sebum and improves skin lubrication and elasticity. Tocopherols provide antioxidant protection against lipid peroxidation, while phytosterols contribute to barrier comfort.
Polyphenols such as hydroxytyrosol also exhibit antioxidant activity and may help protect skin lipids from oxidative stress. Modern dermatological research is investigating these molecules for photoprotective and anti-aging support, although topical effects depend strongly on formulation.
use on hair
Olive oil has also been traditionally used on hair and its behaviour can be understood through the structure of the hair fiber.
Hair is composed mainly of keratin proteins surrounded by a protective lipid layer on the cuticle surface. With repeated washing, sun exposure and chemical treatments, this lipid layer is gradually reduced. As a result, the cuticle lifts, hair becomes rougher, tangles more easily and loses shine.
Because olive oil is rich in oleic acid, it shows good affinity for the hair shaft. It spreads easily along the fiber, reduces friction between hairs and improves manageability. This is why hair immediately feels softer and smoother after application.
Olive oil does not hydrate hair in the strict sense, since oils cannot provide water to the fiber. Instead, it limits moisture loss and improves lubrication, acting as a conditioning emollient.
I mainly use it as a pre-wash treatment. I apply a small amount on dry lengths and ends, leave it for about 20–40 minutes and then shampoo. After washing, the hair detangles more easily and feels more flexible.
For dry or curly hair, combining olive oil with lighter oils gives a better cosmetic result, because pure olive oil may feel heavy on fine hair. On oily scalps I avoid the roots and apply only to the lengths.
Its natural antioxidants also help protect hair lipids from environmental oxidation, especially during periods of sun exposure.
In formulations, olive oil behaves as a conditioning emollient rather than a humectant. It reduces transepidermal water loss indirectly by forming a semi-occlusive lipid film.
I personally prefer it in:
- balms
- cold creams
- body oils
- soap formulations
I rarely use it as a standalone facial oil because its high oleic acid content can feel heavy on some skin types. Instead, I combine it with lighter oils rich in linoleic acid to balance skin compatibility.
Cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil is preferred in cosmetics because refining removes a significant portion of antioxidants and unsaponifiable compounds.
From a culinary perspective, early harvest olive oil has a more intense flavor due to its phenolic content. Contrary to common belief, it can be used in cooking because its oxidative stability is relatively high, but its sensory characteristics are best appreciated raw, in salads or finishing dishes.
The olive tree is not only a cultural symbol of the Mediterranean but also a scientifically interesting raw material. Its oil combines nutritional, historical and cosmetic significance. Modern analysis explains many traditional uses: emolliency, protective lipid action and antioxidant support.
Understanding its chemistry allows us to use it correctly — not as a miracle ingredient, but as a functional and valuable component in both diet and skincare.
recipes with olive oil:
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