Beeswax, also known as Cera alba, is a natural wax produced by honeybees (Apis mellifera). Worker bees secrete small wax scales from abdominal glands and use them to build the honeycomb structure of the hive. After purification and filtration, this material becomes the cosmetic raw ingredient used in skincare formulations.
Chemically, beeswax is composed mainly of fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols and hydrocarbons. This composition explains why it behaves very differently from plant oils and butters.
Its melting point ranges between 62–65°C, which makes it solid at room temperature but easy to melt during formulation.
what beeswax actually does in skincareA very common misconception is that beeswax moisturizes the skin. It does not hydrate the skin directly. Beeswax is an occlusive and structuring agent.
This means it works by forming a breathable protective film on the skin surface. The film reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), allowing the skin to retain its own moisture instead of losing it to the environment.
In practical formulation terms beeswax:
- creates a protective barrier
- prevents moisture evaporation
- gives solidity and structure to balms
- increases viscosity
- improves product stability
- prolongs the staying power of a product on the skin
So the wax does not add water to the skin. It helps the skin keep the water it already has.
why balms need beeswaxIn an oil-only preparation, oils remain liquid and spread easily. The product feels greasy and does not stay in place. Beeswax changes this behavior completely.
It transforms a mixture of oils and butters into a semi-solid system. The formula becomes stable, easier to apply and significantly longer lasting on the skin.
Without a wax, a balm is simply an oil blend.
With beeswax, it becomes a protective topical preparation.
how percentage changes the final productThe concentration of beeswax determines the texture:
low concentration (3–5%)
Soft ointments and healing salves
medium concentration (8–12%)
Lip balms and soft balms
high concentration (15–25%)
Hard balms, sticks and protective barrier products
If a preparation turns out too hard, the wax percentage is too high.
If it melts in the jar, it is too low.
Beeswax is often replaced with plant waxes such as candelilla or carnauba wax. However, they are not direct substitutes.
Plant waxes have:
- higher melting points
- harder crystalline structure
- stronger thickening effect
Because of this, they usually require lower percentages and produce a firmer texture. A 1:1 substitution rarely gives the same result and often leads to an overly hard product.
is beeswax comedogenic?Beeswax is not considered pore-clogging in practice. It does not penetrate into the pores but remains on the surface of the skin forming a protective layer.
Breakouts associated with balms are usually caused by heavy oils in the formulation rather than the wax itself.
where beeswax is usedBeeswax is commonly found in:
- lip balms
- salves and ointments
- cleansing balms
- cold creams
- barrier creams
- stick formulations
Beeswax is not added to a formula for decoration or tradition. It is a functional material that determines texture, stability and protective performance.
In short, oils treat the skin.
Beeswax makes the treatment stay on the skin long enough to work.
recipes with beeswax:
